Fixing the MX518 Cable Problem
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13 Sep 2009, 02:34
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Tutorials
Disclaimer: I nor crossfire are held responsible for your mistakes or misplacement during this simple procedure. Opening up Logitech’s product DOES void your warranty, so proceed with caution.
Overall this tutorial will be written purely to promote confidence, I do recommend, if you already have a replacement or different mouse, to try this. A free mouse is always a plus side. The change of the cable is extremely simple; you’re literally a few screws away from it working again.
You will only need a few items to change the fate of your mouse; no soldering iron is needed, unless you want to use the same cable. Needed is:
A medium sized crosshead screwdriver (Philips Screwdriver.
A replacement mouse cable (wire). I will talk about this in a moment.
And last but not least, of course, a Logitech MX518.
The mouse cable will need to be five pinned. Most USB mice will use this cable, unless they are extremely cheap and they are wired into the sensor itself.
Generally if you can unscrew it and open it, it will have a cable compatible. There is some dispute about how genuine the whole gold-plated USB performance claim is; apparently it doesn’t make that much difference whatsoever. Bear in mind the thickness of the cables; you need to make sure it will fit.
OK, let’s get started.
First, you will obviously need to open up your 518, to do that, there are 3 screws on the bottom. They will be covered with the sticker, and you will need to puncture the sticker to locate these screws. I would recommend jotting down your model number and product number (for future free mouse feet free from Logitech) and then completely removing the sticker, using a solvent to remove the majority of the sticky substance left, otherwise it will simply cause friction.
Once you’re in, watch your mouse wheel, it has a metal bit that easily falls out – be weary when opening it up. Don’t be too scared of the amount of green in there, it’s a circuit board. You now need to remove yet another screw, with an even smaller screwdriver.
Removing this screw will enable you to life the mounting point of the buttons and scroll wheel. Obviously you will need to keep these screws safe. You will need to take the wire out on the mounting piece too, just simply wiggle it out. Try not to pull on the cable.
After removing that, you will now have easy access to your mouse cable. Again, it is a five pinned adapter, so you will need to wiggle it out and simply discard of it.
You will notice that the mouse cable is bent into a certain shape. You will need to obviously wire your mouse cable through this. Remove it, replace it with your spare, and then close everything back up carefully. Remember the scroll wheel is fragile.
With that put your mouse back together.
I have proof read this, nor will be doing. However I am open to you giving me advice on Improving this tutorial. Any questions, /q Scarzy @ quakenet.
Greetings and thanks to: h8m3, Shuki, Uteoz, Banaan, Noodle and Meez.
Overall this tutorial will be written purely to promote confidence, I do recommend, if you already have a replacement or different mouse, to try this. A free mouse is always a plus side. The change of the cable is extremely simple; you’re literally a few screws away from it working again.
You will only need a few items to change the fate of your mouse; no soldering iron is needed, unless you want to use the same cable. Needed is:
A medium sized crosshead screwdriver (Philips Screwdriver.
A replacement mouse cable (wire). I will talk about this in a moment.
And last but not least, of course, a Logitech MX518.
The mouse cable will need to be five pinned. Most USB mice will use this cable, unless they are extremely cheap and they are wired into the sensor itself.
Generally if you can unscrew it and open it, it will have a cable compatible. There is some dispute about how genuine the whole gold-plated USB performance claim is; apparently it doesn’t make that much difference whatsoever. Bear in mind the thickness of the cables; you need to make sure it will fit.
OK, let’s get started.
First, you will obviously need to open up your 518, to do that, there are 3 screws on the bottom. They will be covered with the sticker, and you will need to puncture the sticker to locate these screws. I would recommend jotting down your model number and product number (for future free mouse feet free from Logitech) and then completely removing the sticker, using a solvent to remove the majority of the sticky substance left, otherwise it will simply cause friction.
Once you’re in, watch your mouse wheel, it has a metal bit that easily falls out – be weary when opening it up. Don’t be too scared of the amount of green in there, it’s a circuit board. You now need to remove yet another screw, with an even smaller screwdriver.
Removing this screw will enable you to life the mounting point of the buttons and scroll wheel. Obviously you will need to keep these screws safe. You will need to take the wire out on the mounting piece too, just simply wiggle it out. Try not to pull on the cable.
After removing that, you will now have easy access to your mouse cable. Again, it is a five pinned adapter, so you will need to wiggle it out and simply discard of it.
You will notice that the mouse cable is bent into a certain shape. You will need to obviously wire your mouse cable through this. Remove it, replace it with your spare, and then close everything back up carefully. Remember the scroll wheel is fragile.
With that put your mouse back together.
I have proof read this, nor will be doing. However I am open to you giving me advice on Improving this tutorial. Any questions, /q Scarzy @ quakenet.
Greetings and thanks to: h8m3, Shuki, Uteoz, Banaan, Noodle and Meez.
i got Diamondback , Diamondback 3G , Deathadder , MX518 , IME 4.0 , IME 3.0
take a pick ... iam pending between IME 3.0 and Deathadder.. gief geeks advice.
and don't use microsoft mice if you have very low sens
and it has no prediction no matter what you do
I will be glad to help :)
but there's another one lying around, so i might give it a try!
the ultraX mouse was working fine before the change. :o
After i wrote this i had to change my IME3 cable, however I tried one without a resistor near the USB, and alas it would not power the mouse.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh135/Yorgmiester/MicrosoftOpticalWheelMouse.jpg
Im not sure if the MX518 has a cable with or without as stock. This is the only variation in the cable that i know is common.
EDIT: CHECK THE NOTE AT THE BOTTOM ABOUT THIS
The cable is always "broken" near the end of the mouse:
1> remove the cable as scarzy described.
2> cut it of ~10 centimeters after the hole of the mouse (should make 15-20 cm less)
3> remove plastic part of the adaptator on the mouse, revealing the connecting pins.
4> solder the shortened cable to pins, in the right order (be careful !)
5> you can put some pieces of paper between the pins in order to keep them properly separated while soldering (it's very unlikely that your soldering iron will be small enough do to it in a clean way)
6> put everything back together, and enjoy !
it's easier to do together with some friend since it needs to be precise and 4 hands arent too much :)
this way you can use the same cable a few more time, with unsoldering and shortening it regulary.
I saved a copperhead and a diamondback this way.
I also heard there was a way to re use the previous plug/adaptator but didn't manage.
Never say other person is wrong and you don't have anything to prove it.