Fix your mouse yourself.

Hello everybody!



In this tutorial I'm gonna show you how to fix your mouse when it's cable is broken.
Sorry for the picture quality, lost my camera so I had to take the photos with phone, hope you still can see the important parts.
Enjoy.

How do I know that my mouse cable is broken?
Your mouse "disconnects" every few secs, mostly during playing games. Mostly during playing is because that's when you do quick moves with your mouse, so the cables are losing contact, hence it will stop working for seconds. Windows will give you the plug-in sound and in a second or two it's working again. Kinda frustrating, isn't it?

How do I know where did the cable break?
I've repraired like 20 different cable broken mice and each cable was broken at the point where it connects to the mouse, exactly right there. It's the most common breakable part of the cable simply because it gets the most shaking and moving.

What tools do I need to fix my mouse?

- a screw driver
- a cutting pliers
- small amount of tin
- soldering-iron
- 2 different sized sinter tubes

If you got these tools you can reprain your mouse in about 15 minutes.

Let's get started!

1.
First of all, unsquash you mouse. All you have to do is to take out the scews, but watch out there might be even 4-6 screws in your mouse. You can find these screws under every vignette and skates. Make sure you removed all the screws so you can take your mouse into pieces, you might need bit of power removing the roof, but if it's just don't wanna come off, scan for more screws, don't break the wrapping!

image: w22hvo

2.
When you succesfully removed the wrapping you will be able to see the cable connection to the motherboard of the mouse, plug out the cable and remove the whole cable from the mouse. You can now put away the mouse, all you need is the cable. We wanna keep the connector and only remove the broken part, which I already told where you can find.

image: 16ksu1h

3.
Now all you have to do is take two cuts on the cable, see on the picture below. Make sure you leave long enough space to work at the connctor side of the cable. The green lines are marking the part what you must to cut off.

image: 1zxrrcw

If you did it right, you must be having two cables right now. One with the small white connector on the end of it which goes to the mouse MB (this should be the smaller part) and the bigger part with the USB on the end of it. You can throw away the part you cut off.

4.
Now comes the harder part. You have to remove the black shealting (what we call cable) from the actuall small wires from both of your cables. It should look like on the pic belov.
Use your pliers for this, grab the cable with ur pliers push a little bit, but not too hard because it will cause damage in the wires under the shealting and pull hard. If it's your first attempt to removed the shealthing from wires then it will take time do it properly. Cut off 2-3 cm will do, no more needed.

image: iee7tv

Now that the black shealting is removed we will see 4 different colored also shealted wires and one wire which is the shielding. So we got 5 different wires and the shealting of these must be removed too (shielding doesn't count). Do it like the way you did with the black shealting. Don't remove than 1/3 part of the visible part of the wires!!! because you won't be able to cover them with sinter tubes later.

image: 10450zl

After you removed the shealting from every wire on both cable parts we have to place the sinter tubes before splicing, simply because we won't be able to do it afterwards.
Cut 5 little pieces from the sinter tube, long enough to cover the "naked" parts of wires, but watch out you need space to for splicing! Just draw on the wires like this.
I forgot to take a picture of the bigger sinter tube, which is moved on the longer part of the cable, it's gonna cover your small wires and grab them together so it's gonna look just like the cable.

image: 2rmsdgp

My red sinter tubes are long enough to cover the "naked" parts after splicing, but not longer than the wires itself so I'll be able to connect the wires to eachother with the wires from other part of the cable.

5.
You have the tubes on the wires so we can do the splice. To get the spliced the wires you must heat ur soldering-iron up to 250-280°C. Put a little bit of melted tin to your soldering-iron and touch matched SAME COLORED wires from both sides.

image: 2r7qyxk

Don't leave "tin heads" on the wires, because ur sinter tubes won't fit. If you did it right you can pull the tubes over the wire and by heating it will sinter to the wire and can't be moved from there.
Put the tubes one-by-one after the the soldering, it's easier than doing it all together.

image: 4ptdhv

So you got all the 5 wires soldered and covered with the sinter tube, now to keep that part together just move your bigger sinter tube over that part and start heating it.
(Try to make it as small as possible otherwise it's not gonna fit into your mouse)

image: 2j5cqk1

image: 15ga15x

6.
Last step is to connect the cable to your mouse and arrange it somehow to not to block the wrapping when putting it together.

image: 21jni84

And this is how you reprair your mouse. It's not so easy for the first try, but after 3-4 attempts it's like childplay. So you don't have to waste your money on a new mouse.

There is an easier way to reprair your mouse if it's cable is broken, but that demands a stuff which drains the tin and I'm currectly out of it.

Thanks for the read, I tried to be as simple as possible. If you have any problems understanding the tutorial let me know and I'll try to help to understand it.

adze
Comments
42
Nice tutorial, don't think I would ever bother doing that though.
Did it once, completely ruined my mouse... Still haunts me to this day.
Zowie tries to stop people from opening their mice. The main large hole under the back skate that looks like part of the mold is actually a capped lock screw. It has a Triangular head and actually spins the opposite of a normal screw. :D
Pidetään mielessä jos joskus tarvii korjailla :D..
Parent
Problem is that most people with a soldering apparatus probably figures out how to do this without a tutorial. :)

You better read up on flux if you get it from an industial/surplus supply or similar. SFPE
I'd kill my mouse even more if i tried to do this! Rather buy a new one :P
nice pro m8 (crazy finger :DDD)
FUCK YOU, I KNEW YOU GONNA THROW IT INTO MY FACE :D
Parent
:DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD
Parent
good work, but why have you had to do this with 20 mice? :O
It's some kind of a "hobby". I buy broken mice to fix and sell them :)
Parent
thanks !!!!!!!!!!
actually it worked with my old xai steelseries !!
You are welcome! I'm aslo using a Xai which was sent with borken cable to me by Kalli :P
Parent
i did this ages ago with just electrical tape and no soldering, mouse still works 3-4 years later
i think it was 3-4 years ago
Parent
Never had this problem. I had to replace my mx518 after almost 7 years because the buttons had worn out.
Yeah you have to be lucky to "miss" this problem, my 3rd DiamondBack haven't had this problem even after 4 years of usage.
Parent
Honestly, thats easier to fix than fixing the cable :3
Parent
What tools do I need to fix my mouse?
newspaper
The desk I am reprairing stuff on is kinda used and the little screws and stuff would get lost, so I had to use something :)
Parent
Repaired my Logitech G5 Refresh with soldering (I'm a mechatronic technician). The bottom of the mouse is shit now because the screws were behind the mouse feets.

Anyways, nice tutorial.
Try that on intelli1.1a. First the connector is hard wired into mouse internals, and secondly the length to the "connection point" is like 1.5cm. :(
You can do it a different way. All you need is a tin drainer besides the tools mentioned above. Cut the whole cable from the broken part to the connector, you can throw that 10cm part away, and ironsolder the wires one-by-one to the motherboard of the mouse. (Before removing he connector part, memorize the color order)
Parent
I tried to fix Columbiastoner´s mouse once like this and when I opened it some shit jumped in my face and some other parts ended up in the desk...I couldn't figure it out how to put it back togheter so I simply put it all back in, closed it and told him it was fucked. I also went to a "pro" guy who repaired mouses and he said it was more expensive to fix it than buying a new one...
XD
What mouse is this?
some very old logitech, it wasnt even broken, just used it for the tutorial
Parent
Forgot to say gratz for this tutorial! I would look at making it into a pdf, and distributing it at different websites. I had a lot more response from different communities (overclocker, ESR, geekhack). If you want to talk further about anything hit me up on IRC. :)
Parent
Thanks! That would be great, as soon as I'll have the time to talk I'll contact you!
Parent
i did this fix for my mx518
Parent
guys do you really need a tutorial to solder a cable *.*
hahaha tez tego rozkminic nie moge :D takie zabiegi to sie 10lat temu robilo :D
Parent
Step 1 Go to the Electronic Market
Step 2 Buy new one
????
If you'd spend 50€ for a new mouse rather than fixing it in 10 minutes then I dunno what to say, your call
Parent
i was trying to be funny soz
Parent
At least you tried!
Parent
maybe youtube link I Scrolled first 2 row shit and my IQ is 51 and i cant get it if not show
been there, done that long time ago. when i put it all together i had left a spring and i had no idea where that could go in, so now my mouse wheel is not working anymore :DD, but other than that its alright. it didnt break since looooooooooong long time
i always buy a new mouse ( always the same deathadder) than i put the old one into the packaging of the new one and bring it back to the shop - always get a new one and i have 2 new mouse for the price of one
Fix your gay face first :D
I was born like that, I can't do anything about it.
Parent
hahaha
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