The idea behind this article is to give anyone who hasn’t built a PC or isn’t familiar with PC building an insight into how to do it from a newbies perspective. Prior to this build I had only watched it being done and it still feels like a game of operation to be honest, but hopefully this helps you. [img|right]http://crossfire.nu/Intelarticle/case.jpg[/img]This is by no means a bible and neither is this the first time such an article has been done, but hopefully this will help someone! Before you start you should know that this will take a couple of hours and that you will want to grab a diet coke and some Pringles prior to making this endeavour!
Step 1 - The Case In order to get stuff in, you’re going to have to take stuff out! Dismantle the case, remove the chassis side panel and peripheral holders. In this case the top panel or more like the lid needs removing - this will need either a screw driver or some parts can just be pushed out. Make sure you’re taking apart the box as per the user manuals instructions. The order of part removal is important because you want to make sure that you’re installing everything in the right order, this is particularly crucial on a case this small because if you do it wrong you’ll have to move parts to get other parts in.
[img|right]http://crossfire.nu/Intelarticle/motherboard.jpg[/img]
Step 2 – The motherboard
Before you screw down the motherboard it’s important to get the I/O shield in place (the thin piece in metal with holes cut out for the backpanel connectors). These little devices simply keep things nice and tidy and reduces dust coming into your case.
You want to make sure that you know what CPU fan you’ve got before you start screwing the motherboard down.A lot of third party CPU fans require a back plate to secure it to the board, partly due to the growing size of the Intel Socket on the new i7’s and the second reason is because the CPU fans are growing in weight and they require the additional support of the back plate. If you’re planning on using the fan that came with the CPU you won’t have this problem, which in this case is what I did.[img|right]http://crossfire.nu/Intelarticle/moboscrew.jpg[/img] We won’t install the CPU until step 5. Once confident you can screw the motherboard down as pictured, this is quite simple just screw through the holes on the board onto the backboard of the case.
Step 3 – Peripherals
First to go in for this case is the Optical Drive. Simply place the optical drive through the space in the brackets until its just touching the front, then screw in from the outside of the brackets into the holes provided – the holes will align with the brackets for correct placing. Secondly attach the harddrives to their bracket mountings in the same fashion. Lastly mount the PSU to the case, you need to sit it onto the frame and then screw it in from the outside – some cases come with holders, some come with small frames simply to add support to the PSU.
[img|right]http://crossfire.nu/Intelarticle/hdd.jpg[/img]
Step 4 – Component installation
Component installation is not stuck to a rigid cycle, we’re putting the memory in first because quite often the video card can be so long that it would ‘clip’ against the memory slots. When dealing with memory first check which type your board needs. DDR3 RAM is incompatible with DDR2 RAM because the memory pin outs have changed so they simply don’t fit onto the board slots. This system will use DDR3, knowing that DDR3 is of course better than DDR2 with twice the data rate.
It’s good to note that the new Intel Core i7 it has an integrated memory controller – which cannot handle some of the older (first generation) DDR3’s which can use a much higher voltage, such as the old 1.9 volts. When you increase your memory speeds you’ll run into problems as you bump the voltage– it’s important to get the right voltage, you want to use memory who’s voltage is less than 1.65 volts on an i7 processor.
The video cards are relatively straight forward to install, they slot into place nicely and you should be able to visually see whether they’re in correctly by whether they are smoothly into their slots and not sticking up at either end. Don’t forget if you’re running SLi to use the SLi bridge that should come with the motherboard. [img|right]http://crossfire.nu/Intelarticle/mobocompo.jpg[/img]To do this simply clip them across the tops of the graphics card (connectors should be clearly visible). The Zotac video cards we’re using don’t require additional power connectors which is relatively unique, should your video cards need them simply use the appropriate leads from the PSU and attach them to the card. Mid to high range graphics cards could need multiple 2x4 pin connectors whereas lower range cards may only need a single 2x3 – make sure you’re using the PCI-E power leads, which will be different to the similar looking connectors (it will state PCI-E on it).
Step 5 - The CPU
When putting the CPU in you will need to be careful at all times as without realising it you can do irreparable damage very quickly – the pins break very easily. Firstly you need to consider the alignment. Look at the photos to observe that the CPU is aligned with the small arrow on the bottom left.[img|right]http://crossfire.nu/Intelarticle/cpu1.jpg[/img] Place down onto the socket and make sure the socket is secure prior to dropping the CPU socket arm which holds the processor in place. The CPU arm should only be dropped when the CPU case (the silver frame in the picture) is successfully over the CPU - you’ll know this because the CPU case will slide under the screw to the left of the CPU (pictured).
The CPU fan will sometimes come with the thermal paste pre applied - like the one we’re using , however if yours does not you require thermal paste which is for transferring heat from the top of the socket to the fan then it is easy enough to apply. To apply thermal paste you don’t need much of it and it should be pasted very thinly using something like the edge of a credit card.
To install the CPU fan you simply push the clips down (placing the fan over the CPU) and it will hop in. Don’t forget to hook up the fan to the motherboard otherwise it wont be powered, the power cable will be the one attached to the CPU Fan simply connect that to the board.[img|right]http://crossfire.nu/Intelarticle/cpu2.jpg[/img]
Step 6 – Wiring it up
This step is crucial for making sure everything is connected that needs to be. Things need to be connected to the motherboard in order for them to work for example your case panel which needs to be connected for your power, reset, LED lights, Audio sockets and USB Sockets to work! Your motherboard should come with a map as to which cable is to go where on the board and you should follow this to the letter when wiring everything together as it will be different with each board.
Step 7 – Power
Lastly you need to connect the motherboard to the PSU so that everything will turn on! It is recommended that you use modular power supplies, but we don’t have one for this build so we have the normal variety of PSU. To connect the PSU to the motherboard you’re going to locate the one lead for the motherboard, it is going to be a 2x12pin cable (though some are 2x10s for certain boards). [img|right]http://crossfire.nu/Intelarticle/cpu3.jpg[/img]All boards will have a separate CPU power cable (high end boards will require a 2x4 pin connector) this should be labelled CPU Power. Then you need to power your peripherals, your optical drive first – connect the SATA cable to the motherboard for data then put in the power cable. Next the hard drive using the same methodology, SATA first and then the power. Doing it systematically is a good way of making sure everything is connected. Certain cases have fans that require power either from the PSU or the motherboard, in this case we connected ours directly to the power supply – you’ll be able to tell whether its a PSU powered fan or motherboard powered fan by the cable coming from the fan.
Step 8 – Turn me on baby!
[img|right]http://crossfire.nu/Intelarticle/wired.jpg[/img]
You should by this time have all your components into the case and you can now attach your base peripherals – the monitor and keyboard, plug in your computer and then turn it on! Next comes installing your operating system which in earnest is a very simple operation. Slip your OS DVD in and when prompted press any key to boot from DVD! I installed Windows 7 on the Solid State Drive as OS load times is one of the most annoying things for me, combine the enhanced speed of loading of Windows 7 with the read times of the Solid State drive and from pressing the power button to loading an application in Windows takes 15 seconds now, certainly a time I can cope with! I’m actually a fan of windows 7, its quite intuitive and automatically picks up some of the hardware without the need for drivers.
That about does it for this guide, if this helps you or if you’ve any questions let me know I’ll do my best to help.
Step 1 - The Case In order to get stuff in, you’re going to have to take stuff out! Dismantle the case, remove the chassis side panel and peripheral holders. In this case the top panel or more like the lid needs removing - this will need either a screw driver or some parts can just be pushed out. Make sure you’re taking apart the box as per the user manuals instructions. The order of part removal is important because you want to make sure that you’re installing everything in the right order, this is particularly crucial on a case this small because if you do it wrong you’ll have to move parts to get other parts in.
[img|right]http://crossfire.nu/Intelarticle/motherboard.jpg[/img]
Step 2 – The motherboard
Before you screw down the motherboard it’s important to get the I/O shield in place (the thin piece in metal with holes cut out for the backpanel connectors). These little devices simply keep things nice and tidy and reduces dust coming into your case.
You want to make sure that you know what CPU fan you’ve got before you start screwing the motherboard down.A lot of third party CPU fans require a back plate to secure it to the board, partly due to the growing size of the Intel Socket on the new i7’s and the second reason is because the CPU fans are growing in weight and they require the additional support of the back plate. If you’re planning on using the fan that came with the CPU you won’t have this problem, which in this case is what I did.[img|right]http://crossfire.nu/Intelarticle/moboscrew.jpg[/img] We won’t install the CPU until step 5. Once confident you can screw the motherboard down as pictured, this is quite simple just screw through the holes on the board onto the backboard of the case.
Step 3 – Peripherals
First to go in for this case is the Optical Drive. Simply place the optical drive through the space in the brackets until its just touching the front, then screw in from the outside of the brackets into the holes provided – the holes will align with the brackets for correct placing. Secondly attach the harddrives to their bracket mountings in the same fashion. Lastly mount the PSU to the case, you need to sit it onto the frame and then screw it in from the outside – some cases come with holders, some come with small frames simply to add support to the PSU.
[img|right]http://crossfire.nu/Intelarticle/hdd.jpg[/img]
Step 4 – Component installation
Component installation is not stuck to a rigid cycle, we’re putting the memory in first because quite often the video card can be so long that it would ‘clip’ against the memory slots. When dealing with memory first check which type your board needs. DDR3 RAM is incompatible with DDR2 RAM because the memory pin outs have changed so they simply don’t fit onto the board slots. This system will use DDR3, knowing that DDR3 is of course better than DDR2 with twice the data rate.
It’s good to note that the new Intel Core i7 it has an integrated memory controller – which cannot handle some of the older (first generation) DDR3’s which can use a much higher voltage, such as the old 1.9 volts. When you increase your memory speeds you’ll run into problems as you bump the voltage– it’s important to get the right voltage, you want to use memory who’s voltage is less than 1.65 volts on an i7 processor.
The video cards are relatively straight forward to install, they slot into place nicely and you should be able to visually see whether they’re in correctly by whether they are smoothly into their slots and not sticking up at either end. Don’t forget if you’re running SLi to use the SLi bridge that should come with the motherboard. [img|right]http://crossfire.nu/Intelarticle/mobocompo.jpg[/img]To do this simply clip them across the tops of the graphics card (connectors should be clearly visible). The Zotac video cards we’re using don’t require additional power connectors which is relatively unique, should your video cards need them simply use the appropriate leads from the PSU and attach them to the card. Mid to high range graphics cards could need multiple 2x4 pin connectors whereas lower range cards may only need a single 2x3 – make sure you’re using the PCI-E power leads, which will be different to the similar looking connectors (it will state PCI-E on it).
Step 5 - The CPU
When putting the CPU in you will need to be careful at all times as without realising it you can do irreparable damage very quickly – the pins break very easily. Firstly you need to consider the alignment. Look at the photos to observe that the CPU is aligned with the small arrow on the bottom left.[img|right]http://crossfire.nu/Intelarticle/cpu1.jpg[/img] Place down onto the socket and make sure the socket is secure prior to dropping the CPU socket arm which holds the processor in place. The CPU arm should only be dropped when the CPU case (the silver frame in the picture) is successfully over the CPU - you’ll know this because the CPU case will slide under the screw to the left of the CPU (pictured).
The CPU fan will sometimes come with the thermal paste pre applied - like the one we’re using , however if yours does not you require thermal paste which is for transferring heat from the top of the socket to the fan then it is easy enough to apply. To apply thermal paste you don’t need much of it and it should be pasted very thinly using something like the edge of a credit card.
To install the CPU fan you simply push the clips down (placing the fan over the CPU) and it will hop in. Don’t forget to hook up the fan to the motherboard otherwise it wont be powered, the power cable will be the one attached to the CPU Fan simply connect that to the board.[img|right]http://crossfire.nu/Intelarticle/cpu2.jpg[/img]
Step 6 – Wiring it up
This step is crucial for making sure everything is connected that needs to be. Things need to be connected to the motherboard in order for them to work for example your case panel which needs to be connected for your power, reset, LED lights, Audio sockets and USB Sockets to work! Your motherboard should come with a map as to which cable is to go where on the board and you should follow this to the letter when wiring everything together as it will be different with each board.
Step 7 – Power
Lastly you need to connect the motherboard to the PSU so that everything will turn on! It is recommended that you use modular power supplies, but we don’t have one for this build so we have the normal variety of PSU. To connect the PSU to the motherboard you’re going to locate the one lead for the motherboard, it is going to be a 2x12pin cable (though some are 2x10s for certain boards). [img|right]http://crossfire.nu/Intelarticle/cpu3.jpg[/img]All boards will have a separate CPU power cable (high end boards will require a 2x4 pin connector) this should be labelled CPU Power. Then you need to power your peripherals, your optical drive first – connect the SATA cable to the motherboard for data then put in the power cable. Next the hard drive using the same methodology, SATA first and then the power. Doing it systematically is a good way of making sure everything is connected. Certain cases have fans that require power either from the PSU or the motherboard, in this case we connected ours directly to the power supply – you’ll be able to tell whether its a PSU powered fan or motherboard powered fan by the cable coming from the fan.
Step 8 – Turn me on baby!
[img|right]http://crossfire.nu/Intelarticle/wired.jpg[/img]
You should by this time have all your components into the case and you can now attach your base peripherals – the monitor and keyboard, plug in your computer and then turn it on! Next comes installing your operating system which in earnest is a very simple operation. Slip your OS DVD in and when prompted press any key to boot from DVD! I installed Windows 7 on the Solid State Drive as OS load times is one of the most annoying things for me, combine the enhanced speed of loading of Windows 7 with the read times of the Solid State drive and from pressing the power button to loading an application in Windows takes 15 seconds now, certainly a time I can cope with! I’m actually a fan of windows 7, its quite intuitive and automatically picks up some of the hardware without the need for drivers.
That about does it for this guide, if this helps you or if you’ve any questions let me know I’ll do my best to help.
there i would have to login to a webserver for the picture to be displayed.
this: ftp://ar3.dk/CFIntelArticle/Components.jpg
Video Cards: Dual 9800 GTs 1 Gig Ram SLI
at least get more average products -_- not things just 5% here owns
e: and i need some kind of login or smth
rest is nice :)
EDIT: My bad, apparently 1366 only fits i7s and Xeons :(
would be nice for someone to do a water cooling walkthrough, I am the newb and want to learn that stuffs :)
To be honest, water cooling systems aren't that complex. Once you've decided the type you want (See that article I linked for more information) just find one that's good value for money and a good make. I have always found Coolermaster for example to be good value for money in terms of performance to cash ratio.
They have a watercooling forum, they could answer any question you could possibly have about it.
no that's harsh, good jobbbbbbbbb keep it uppppppppppp
Most cases nowadays come with different formats though, ATX, uATX etc., so they just have a massive amount of holes in the motherboard holding plate. You gotta find out what format your board has or just check the holes of it, in order to get the screw holding screws (wtf) in those holes.
And still, after all those years I can't believe they haven't found a better way to control the LEDs, powerswitches etc than just those ridiculously tiny wire things.
Asus (am I allowed to say that name here?) managed to deliver some sort of dockingstation with their boards that allows you to insert the wires on that instead of the pins directly. Atleast a tad more comfortable.
Edit: Oh, and I think the most difficult part is actually getting the right parts together. Like the right mainboard for the right socket/CPU, PCI or PCI-E, Sata or IDE, DDR 1,2,3 what speed, etc etc. That might be even harder for most.
You gotta have a special look at the power supplies nowadays as well, not only for enough power, but for enough connectors, as the new graphicscard need some special PCI-E connectors, with either 4,6 or 8 (or whatever) pins. Ofc you could get some extensions and Y-adapters, but that's not too nice :-P
Ehm, and actually buy or check out the graphicscard size before you buy the case. Had this problem a few weeks ago when I ordered a GTX260 for a friend of mine for his old and standard midi tower. Simply didn't fit in, didn't expect a gfxcard to be that long.
In the door the speaker wire is green, when it arrives in the middle console it's yellow.
If not hf buying new components.
Just ground yourself first
ps just bought myself a new pc (quad core), but 64 bit gave me more pain in the ass than I originally thought....
CPU: Intel Core i7 920 Box SLBEJ D0
MotherBoard: Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD7 Sk1366
HD: Western Digital 1TB SATA II, SATA 500GB, ATA 250GB
Monitor: LG 22 inch
Keyboard: Lifetech Quicknet Slim (Offer from the store) :D
Mouse: Logitech MX518
Mousepad: 5L SteeL
Sound: Integrated
Graphics: Sapphire ATI HD5850 1GB DDR5 PCI-e
Memory: G-Skill DDR3-17066 2133MHz PS CL9 (3x2GB)
O/S: Windows 7 Ultimate x64 PT-PT Edition
Headset: Logitech
Connection: 20Mbs
And for the people that want to more about watercooling, look at www.xtremesystems.org.
If you want to see my watercooling look here. http://www.highflow.nl/forum/f34/edwins-stacker-2932/
This will spoil the fun!
just rtfm and learn it while doin it
there are manuals for everything. the tower, the motherboard, the psu, the graphicscard,
the soundcard, even for the freaking ram ..
that's almost "idioten sicher" :D
My friend builded the last one=)
I'll probably rebuild my old computers and follow this guide and hope for a better result!
The small pins are the big fucking problem, after touching those pins I wasn't able to start the computer at all :@
don't buy amd cpu/motherboard and intel ram or so :D
The last one I bought a week ago was components some friends helped me to order to make sure it fit together :)
always read about it or get help if you aren't really aware of what to do :)
you can't put diesel in a benzine car .. :D
Haha funny mentioned that, my father took benzine in a diesel-car :D
But only because he usually has a benzine-car except when he drives with the job-car.
I guess it's in the genes :)
the car still ok or is the motor wrecked now? =D
I think it's worse if you put diesel in a benzine-car than the opposite like my father did.
And even though he tried to start the car for a while the motor was still OK :D
But i bet it was embarrasing to call them and tell what happened :)
ye i can imagine how embarrasing it might have been :D
and it won't start (most won't), so you got to get your car running with regular fuel and then add some diesel.
also you could make a mix; put 40% 95 or 98 and rest diesel.. it wont start as well as it should and it might be a bit too stressing for starter/ ignition system, but atleast you would be able to drive like that.
altho diesel in newish cars could ruin those fancy exhaustcatalyte-thingies, lambda's and so on..